So, here it is. The boat looks almost naked without all its gear, but it all has to come off. Here are some more images that display the 'old skool' nature of the boat.
I finally removed all of the fittings from the decks and centerboard cap. Most of these were fairly easy to get to, but some off them had been bedded in epoxy and were a pain in the ass. It was especially fufn to reach all the way forward to get to some nuts on the inside of the tank...
Here is just about the only area on the boat about which I am concerned. The thwart has been well used to lead to rake/tension control lines, included a hole cut to have a Harken double thru-deck block (the rectangular hole. In their effort to keep the footprint of their block as small as possible, Harken has put the fastener holes quite near to the main thru-deck hole. In this instance the plywood has not proven much of a match and the holes have all joined together. The shotty glass work repair is mine from a regatta a couple off years ago.
A piece of advice to anyone doing this to their own boat would be to remove the inspection port housings before taking anything else out. It's far easier to have your hand in there with the bit of extra room. Also, it's not a bad idea to put a shop towel inside the tank to keep flying tools from dinging the layer of the laminate.
Look familiar? This is a photo from 1981 a twin to CV. It looks so strange to not see fittings for control lines on the deck and shock cord everywhere for takeups.
The centerboard cap is in sad shape. The two holes in the middle are going to be filled by cutting a piece of mohagany to fit and then epoxying it in. Should be as good as new.
The mast step with some dust from the sanding of the foredeck. Working up here is like spelunking.
This is the mast gate modification. One of the changes that Larry Tuttle at
Waterat made to the Hamlin mold was to lengthen the opening of the mast gate to accomodate for increased rake. Hamlin owners had to be a bit more creative. The mast just touches at 24'10", so I'm going to fix up the top a bit, keep its groove and fill the areas where you can see the sawsall was used.
I finally removed all of the fittings from the decks and centerboard cap. Most of these were fairly easy to get to, but some off them had been bedded in epoxy and were a pain in the ass. It was especially fufn to reach all the way forward to get to some nuts on the inside of the tank...
Here is just about the only area on the boat about which I am concerned. The thwart has been well used to lead to rake/tension control lines, included a hole cut to have a Harken double thru-deck block (the rectangular hole. In their effort to keep the footprint of their block as small as possible, Harken has put the fastener holes quite near to the main thru-deck hole. In this instance the plywood has not proven much of a match and the holes have all joined together. The shotty glass work repair is mine from a regatta a couple off years ago.
A piece of advice to anyone doing this to their own boat would be to remove the inspection port housings before taking anything else out. It's far easier to have your hand in there with the bit of extra room. Also, it's not a bad idea to put a shop towel inside the tank to keep flying tools from dinging the layer of the laminate.
The centerboard cap is in sad shape. The two holes in the middle are going to be filled by cutting a piece of mohagany to fit and then epoxying it in. Should be as good as new.
The mast step with some dust from the sanding of the foredeck. Working up here is like spelunking.
This is the mast gate modification. One of the changes that Larry Tuttle at Waterat made to the Hamlin mold was to lengthen the opening of the mast gate to accomodate for increased rake. Hamlin owners had to be a bit more creative. The mast just touches at 24'10", so I'm going to fix up the top a bit, keep its groove and fill the areas where you can see the sawsall was used.
